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Close Window Ms. Martens with an Uzbek ikat weaver
Ms. Martens with an Uzbek ikat weaver

Fulbright Scholar Christine Martens Shares Feltmaking Processes (06/30/2008)

During the month of June, American Fulbright Scholar Christine Martens met with artisans across Uzbekistan to talk about felt making and share information about various felt making processes. During her visits to Tashkent, Kokand, and villages outside of Margilan, Ms. Martens discussed various felt making techniques with Uzbek felt makers. Of particular interest to Uzbek artisans was the work of American artist Jorie Johnson. Johnson, who is based in Japan, is known for her unique designs and technically-difficult to produce garments. Ms. Martens walked artisans through the felt making process while displaying photos of Johnson’s work. Ms. Martens, who has researched felt making around the world, also covered the work of popular African artist El Anatsui and American artist Nick Cava. Ms. Martens is currently conducting research on felt and traditional art in Central Asia and shared her knowledge of felt making in Kyrgyzstan and Turkey with participants.

Ms. Martens’ visits across Uzbekistan were diverse and gave her a chance to learn more about textiles in Uzbekistan while sharing her expertise. In Kokand she met with the Businesswomen’s Association to discuss various felt production techniques. In villages around Margilan she had the opportunity to meet with a number of groups who produce ikat and felt. During these visits she worked with a well-known master of ikat weaving, learning about traditional Uzbek ikat patterns. Ms. Martens also had a chance to observe all stages in the production of traditional ikat, including removing the silk from cocoons, designing patterns, dying threads, and weaving on a loom. As part of her observations Ms. Martens met with the Director of the Silk Production Research Institute where she learned about the types of mulberry plants that the institute grows to increase the productivity of silkworms. In return, Ms. Martens shared her knowledge of modern textile designs with Uzbek weavers, providing them with many ideas for new patterns. Finally, in Tashkent, Ms. Martens worked with a small group of artisans and discussed various felt making techniques and designs.

Ms. Martens’ visits with felt makers and artisans across Uzbekistan demonstrates how American researchers and Uzbek artisans can have mutually beneficial meetings as they discuss a common process and its various forms around the world. Ms. Martens left Uzbekistan with a greater understanding of art and felt making in the country while the participants in her meetings gained a greater understanding of their craft and its forms around Central Asia and the world.